Culture Shock

This weekend my apu surprised my with an impromptu trip to the movie theatres! We went to see A Fault in Our Stars…I know it’s some sappy teenage romance, but to be honest I really didn’t have much of a choice. Besides it was one of the only English movies playing in the theatre and I went with my apu’s nieces, who were both still in high school.

I was expecting the worst, sticky floors, cockroaches, and seats from the 1920s. So you can imagine my surprise when I walked into lower quality version of the Arcadia mall. There were eight floors with miles of little shops, selling everything from western miniskirts to traditional salwaar kameezes (I know, I couldn't believe it myself, this is a country that shut down everyone's access to youtube for a whole month!). The mall is attached to a park decked out with everything from a roller coaster to a double decker merry-go-round (I think they were a little confused as to what a “mall” really means, but it's the one percent building this complex and you only build lavishly in this country because you're trying to attract a very limited middle/upper class). The teenagers milling about the mall were dressed in jeans and t-shirts. 

I've been in Bangladesh for about a month and a half, and I'd like to say that beyond a mild shock in the beginning at the work environment, I basically knew what to expect. But nothing prepared me for this wannabe western scenario. I jut couldn't believe what I was seeing! This is a country where I get endless stares if I so much as forget to wear my scarf when going out (it's so hot that I take it off in the car and once I forgot to put it back on. Didn't make that mistake again). Yet here I was walking around an environment that could have been in the US. It was weird. 

There weren't any signs, nor was there a directory, so we had to amble around the eight flights looking for the theatre (which of course was on the top floor). By then it was 3:00, but the movie didn't officially start until 3:00 so we we're fine. No that's not a typo, this country seems to permanently run thirty minutes late, so if a movie says it starts at three, it means the trailers and everything start at half past three. When we got to the counter they said they couldn't sell us tickets because we weren't part of the fan club and this was the first time the movie was playing, so it was supposedly "sold out". I immediately began brainstorming other things to do instead of watching the movie, but my apu and her nieces just laughed and told me to be patient. 

Half an hour later we  bought four tickets to a "sold out movie." The movie theatre, as it turned out, was only half full when we walked in (the guys must have realized that losing four ticket sales wasn't worth the exclusivity of the membership). It cost us BTK 400 each, which is about $5 per person. Out of context that seems cheap for a nice movie theater, with 2014 seats that lean way back, and an expensive Asian screen and sound system. But over here that BTK 400 is worth just as much as our $25+ movie tickets. You see, cafeteria lunch at work, a heaping plate of rice, some lentils, and a curried meat (usually chicken), costs BTK 40 or around 50 US cents. My three night stay in Baniachong, with breakfast, Iftar, tea time, and full room cleaning, came to a total of BTK 400. That being said, going to the movies is a luxury that many people can't afford. 

The film was, as predicted, an over the top sappy romance just like the many others Nayyirah has managed to drag me off to see over the years (a number which suspiciously increased dramatically once I learned to drive haha). But what I wasn't expecting was how uncomfortable I felt if two characters so much as pecked on the cheek. Over here PDA is a big taboo and friends are more affectionate than married couples. For instance it wouldn't be unusual to see two guys holding hands while walking down the street, or two girls with their arms linked...trust me when I say they are just friends hanging out. But, you will never see a couple so much as sitting close to another, even if they were married for 75 years. It's odd, I know, but that's just how the country works. 

Overall the day was exciting and new, but I couldn't really shake the feeling of being so out of my element afterwards. Even now I can't believe how different things were and how westernized it all was. While I may not agree with much of the Bangladeshi culture, such as the general lack of gender equality, I don't want a carbon copy of the western world here. I think a happy medium is necessary for Bangladesh to move forward without completely losing its identity. I know, easier said than done, right? On thing is for sure though, I've definitely become more attentive to this unspoken divide between the traditional and modern Bangladeshis and fully intend to explore this idea further with my friends. I'll keep you posted!

Much love,

Carolyn

P.s. I brought up the boys of Baniachong post with my supervisor today and he had some interesting facts and theories I will share with you tomorrow!