Today was an early wake up call because we are going out to sea to find whales, dolphins, and sea birds. We were determined to be the first ones at the bakery too, I can with confidence say it was the first time I’ve ever been to a bakery at opening time. I didn’t mind waiting despite not yet having a coffee because the baker was playing amazing music that included COUNTRY music. If you haven’t guessed it yet, I was totally line dancing down the streets of Scotland whilst waiting. Maybe this is a sign that Isle of Mull really is a place I belong!
After we got our meat pastries for breakfast (and a caramel filled donut for good measure), we boarded the boat for our four hour adventure at sea. It was Jes’ life dream to see a whale, and I really wanted to see one too, but we were too nervous to actually get our hopes up. The universe definitely answered when we had not one but TWO mink whale spottings!! They were so small compared to other whales but quite cheeky as it swam from one side of the boat only to appear on the other and blow its hole at us. Apparently it’s very rare for them to pop their heads up, but our whale did it twice giving us a good once over haha. Jes and I were elated!
The rest of the trip was less exciting to report about, but I will say that puffins are rather cute birds. Also, we had a sea bird yell at us after we left a big wake that crashed into it. That made me chuckle and reminded me of my own birds at home. Also, I’m not sure what happened but we also had amazing weather too despite rain warnings, the sun decided to shine. I think my Scottish blood was activated because I was the only one on the boat with just her t-shirt on! Even Jes had layers, and you guys know I’m ALWAYS cold, so it gave us a good chuckle that the Californian was too hot in Scotland.
After the boat ride Jes and I were a bit green, and decided some fresh air and a nice walk on land was just the remedy. We went down the Main Street popping into all the shops that were closed the day before. I cannot get over the highland cow art! They’re so cute, I got myself a little postcard for my wall and picked up a ToBEERmory beer for Jes’ husband, Pete, since he was so cool about me road-tripping with his wife without him the day after his wedding. Sorry but also not sorry at all because we are having too much fun!! We popped back in the bakery from this morning for coffee and millionaire’s shortbread. Oh. My. Goodness. It is SO good, I wanted to eat the whole tray and probably would have if I knew it wouldn’t give me a massive stomach ache. Basically it’s shortbread with a thick caramel layer and then a chocolate layer on top, like a Twix bar but a million times better. I may just have to try and bake these at home.
Despite walking the entire town and taking our time we had another two hours to kill so we went on a hike to chase down waterfalls. The hike was filled with such a lush green! It felt like I was on the scene of Jurassic park or something. Also, the moss here is way fluffier than ours, it was so weird to touch. It was so beautiful to have the sea to our left while still being immersed in a forest, definitely the best of both worlds.
We did the entire hiking trail before making it back to the pub from yesterday to have some well earned cheesy fries. You know the town is too small when you become regulars the second time you go into the same pub. Our bartender cracked a joke about making space on the wall for my photo today before automatically pouring our drinks and asking if we’d like the same garlic mayo with our fries as well. Jes and I couldn’t stop laughing and decided that maybe the Isle of Mull is a bit too small to stay forever. At least it’s not as small as some of the other islands we learned about earlier where apparently the kids have to take a plane ride into the mainland and stay there all week just to attend school! I can’t imagine what these kids think when they get to university and realize most kids just take a bus or walk. Things can get quite strange up here in the highlands.
With one last farewell to Tobermory and our favorite highland cows, we drove to the ferry and headed back to Loch Lomond for the night.
The travel was uneventful except the ferry was full of really embarrassing Americans. I made sure to keep my words and accent to a minimum while people watching in the lounge. For example, some east coast frat boy poured WATER in his whisky and told the Scot that he was talking to that drinking whiskey neat was like drinking wine without decanting it first. I think the Scot just about choked on her drink, clearly speechless and horrified. Jes was sat next to me and was equally baffled. I just apologized on behalf of the cocky frat boy and almost told him to order a soda if Scottish whisky is too strong. Jes had a good chuckle at my comeback when I shared it with her after getting back to the privacy of our van.
We began swapping stories of the worst tourists we’ve encountered on our travels for the rest of our drive. By the time we made it to Loch Lomond, Jes and I were quite tired and quickly set up the camper-van and settled in for the night. Tomorrow we begin our ten hour trek back to Brighton. Wish us good weather for the drive!
Lots of love,
Carolyn
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